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  • Boring Soft Jaws

    Boring Soft Jaws

     

    The following is an article that was published by Modern Machine Shop, and written by Mike Lynch Founder and President, CNC Concepts Inc. 

    I liked it, so I thought I would share.

    “For external clamping, subtract the amount of material you’ll be removing from the jaw from the diameter just determined. For example, to clamp on a 4.0-inch diameter using soft jaws, with about 0.1 inch of material to be removed from each jaw, the mounting diameter will be 3.55 inches (4.0 inches minus 0.25-inch jaw stroke minus 0.2 inch of stock—twice the amount of stock to be removed from each jaw).

    Once you have determined the diameter at which the current clamping surface of each jaw must be mounted, you can make the long boring bar point to this diameter. To do so, calibrate the boring bar’s pointing diameter with the X-axis display.

    With the X-axis display calibrated, use the handwheel to bring the tip of the boring bar to your calculated clamping diameter. Then bring the tip of the boring bar up close to the chuck face. Use the tip of the boring bar to determine which serration each jaw should be mounted in. You may have to move the boring bar away in Z (but do not move it in X) in order to actually mount the jaw. Repeat this procedure for each jaw. When you’re finished, each jaw will be in the same serration.

    With hard jaws, the chuck will be in the middle of its stroke when the workpiece is clamped. However, if you’re mounting soft jaws, they must be machined. When you’re finished machining them, they will clamp on the workpiece in the middle of the chuck stroke.

    The same technique can be applied to internal clamping, but you may have to calculate the diameter a little differently. If you’re still mounting the jaws with the master jaws toward the spindle center, you still subtract the jaw stroke from the workpiece diameter to determine the clamping diameter. So for hard jaws, the calculation is exactly the same as it is for external clamping. However, with soft jaws, you must add twice the amount of material you’ll be removing from each jaw to the diameter just calculated.”

    In addition to techniques mentioned above, Haas Automation produced the following videos:

    Part 1: Fundamentals and OD Gripping

    In the first of a two-part installment, a Haas certified machinist explores our recommended soft-jaw cutting techniques and the proper way to cut OD gripping jaws.

    Part 2: Haas certified machinist guides us through more advanced lathe soft jaw cutting techniques, including ID gripping, re-cutting, and adding a taper to your soft jaws.

    Rovi

    Click here to download our complete PDF Catalog!

    If you need Chuck Jaws that cannot be found in our Catalog, simply give us a call at (800)423-5145 and we will find or custom make exactly the jaws you need.

  • Special Chuck Jaws

    From time to time, we get requests to make special Chuck Jaws (to fit a customer’s specifications). An example would be an application that requires a jaw that is larger than what we sell off the shelf.

    We can create custom make jaws up to 9” tall out of steel or aluminum for those applications that require more gripping surface. If you need a set of jaws that require holding a part larger than the diameter of your chuck, we can provide jaws that can overextend beyond the chuck diameter –enabling you to grab larger diameters.

    We also provide Custom Aluminum Full Grip Jaws. An example would be a 12” diameter full grip jaw to fit an 8” chuck, or having a full grip jaw with an extended length. Below are some photos of custom designs that we have created. Special order jaws are usually delivered within 2-3 weeks from receipt of an order.

     

    So if you find yourself in need, do not hesitate to contact us for more info. (800) 423-5145.

  • Picking The Right Tool Holder Bushing

    How do you know what is the correct Tool Holder Bushing to use on your Lathe Turret? Being that we are a provider of Tool Holder Bushings, I get a number of inquiries about this topic. In my opinion, there isn’t one correct answer. Picking the correct bushing has a lot to do with the turret on your lathe and the type of drill or boring bar that you are using. The most common style bushing we sell is the (C) style. This type of bushing is suitable for most machines, being that it has the slot which enables the side mounted screws on your ID turret block. These screws are used to tighten directly on your boring bar.

    In instances where you are using a solid carbide boring bar, threading tool, or a groove tool, you may need to use the (Z) style — or what we call a Boring Bar Sleeve. These bushings offer a set screw that is located near the face of the bushing, allowing you to tighten your bar at the head diameter of the bushing. This is a must when your cutting tool has a short shank on it that will not allow your side screws from the tool block to engage the cutting tool.

    Another option for tools that have a short shank is the style (B) bushing which is a split type. This allows the bushing to clamp directly on the shank of your cutting tool without the set screw engaging directly on to the shank of the cutting tool. This style bushing is usually used on gang tool type turrets but can be used on indexable turrets as well.

    Do not hesitate to contact us to go over your specific applications (800) 423-5145.